Buying a home is one of life's biggest adventures, and we're here to make sure it's an exciting journey, not a stressful one!

Getting a pre-purchase property, pest, and electrical inspection is your secret weapon, giving you confidence and comfort every step of the way.

Think of us as your trusted partners, helping you uncover any hidden secrets a property might be keeping.

General Pre-Purchase Inspection Questions

Q1: Why do I need a pre-purchase property, pest, and electrical inspection?

A: Imagine buying a beautiful car without lifting the bonnet – you wouldn't, right? The same goes for your potential new home! These inspections are your way of looking under the "hood" of a property. They give you a crystal-clear picture of its true condition, spotting any significant building issues, sneaky pest invaders (like termites!), or electrical concerns that aren't obvious at first glance. It's all about empowering you to make the smartest decision, whether that means confidently moving forward, negotiating a better price, or simply walking away with peace of mind. It’s truly an investment in your future!

Q2: Are pre-purchase inspections legally required in NSW?

A: While they're not a legal must-do, they're highly, highly recommended by experts and NSW Fair Trading. Most property contracts in NSW even include a special clause that gives you the green light to get these reports before you seal the deal. It’s always a good idea to chat with your conveyancer about this!

Q3: What are the amazing benefits of getting these inspections?

A: Oh, where to begin!

• Uncover hidden gems (or not-so-hidden surprises!): We’ll help you find things like structural issues, dampness, pest activity, or dodgy wiring that could turn into very costly headaches later on.

• Your negotiation superpower: Armed with our detailed reports, you’ll have the facts you need to confidently negotiate the price or even ask the current owner to fix things before you move in.

• Make truly informed decisions: No more guesswork! You'll know exactly what you're buying, its true value, and any potential future costs.

• Sweet dreams and peace of mind: Say goodbye to "buyer's remorse"! You'll sleep soundly knowing you've thoroughly checked your future home for safety and soundness.

• Expert advice, just for you: We'll give you clear, actionable recommendations on how to handle any issues we find.

Q4: How long do these inspections typically take?

A: The time can vary a bit depending on how big and complex the property is. Generally, a combined building and pest inspection might take 1.5 to 2 hours, and an electrical inspection would be an additional step. We take our time to be thorough, so you get the best possible insights!

Q5: How much do pre-purchase inspections cost in NSW?

A: The cost will depend on the type of inspection, the size of the property, and the specific company you choose. Think of it as a small upfront investment that could save you thousands, or even tens of thousands, down the track. It's definitely money well spent for your comfort and protection!

Q6: Who are the fantastic people who perform these inspections?

A: You'll be in expert hands!

• Building Inspections: Carried out by highly qualified and experienced building inspectors.

• Pest Inspections: Performed by licensed and experienced pest inspectors who know exactly where those creepy crawlies like to hide.

• Electrical Inspections: Done by fully qualified and licensed electricians who specialize in ensuring your home's electrical system is safe and sound.

Pre-Purchase Building Inspection Questions

Q7: What does a pre-purchase building inspection cover?

A: Our comprehensive non-invasive building inspection is like a full health check for your potential new home! We'll meticulously assess its overall condition, including:

• Any major structural defects (like shifts in walls or concerning cracks).

• Minor defects (general wear and tear, small cracks).

• Signs of rising damp and other moisture issues.

• The condition of the roof (tiles, guttering, downpipes).

• The often-overlooked sub-floor area (checking ventilation, drainage, and structural integrity).

• All internal and external walls, ceilings, and floors.

• The garage, carport, and garden shed.

• Smaller features like retaining walls, steps, and fencing.

• Surface water drainage and how storm water runs off the property.

• Paths and driveways.

• We'll also look for visible signs of asbestos (though a specific asbestos report might be needed for a super detailed assessment).

• We’ll even check for operable electrical safety switches and smoke alarms – your family's safety is paramount!

Q8: What is generally NOT included in a standard building inspection?

A: Our standard building inspection is incredibly thorough, but there are a few things it typically doesn't cover unless you specifically request them. These include:

• The internal workings of appliances (like your oven or dishwasher).

• Air conditioning systems.

• Carpets and other floor coverings.

• Paint coatings.

• Alarm systems.

• Electrical systems

• Plumbing beyond basic visual checks (like water pressure or obvious leaks).

• Gas fittings.

• Swimming pools (you'll usually need a separate pool compliance certificate for these).

Pre-Purchase Pest Inspection Questions

Q9: What does a pre-purchase pest inspection involve?

A: Our pest inspection is all about sniffing out unwelcome guests, especially those pesky timber pests like termites, borers, and anything causing wood decay. We'll meticulously examine:

• All accessible areas of the property – this means the sub-floor, roof void, every internal room, and even the areas within 50 metres of the house or inside your property boundaries.

• Any signs of active termites, past termite activity, and any damage they might have caused.

• Conditions that might invite timber pests (like too much moisture or poor ventilation).

• We'll also keep an eye out for other common pests like rodents, cockroaches, and spiders.

Q10: Can a pest inspection guarantee a property is pest-free?

A: While we provide an incredible amount of valuable information and recommendations, it's tough to guarantee a property is 100% pest-free forever. Pests can sometimes hide in areas we can't physically reach, and new infestations can pop up after our visit. However, our inspection significantly slashes the risk of you moving into a home with major, undetected pest problems. We arm you with the knowledge to make informed decisions!

Electrical Questions

Q11: What does a pre-purchase electrical inspection cover?

A: Your peace of mind is our priority, especially when it comes to electricity! Our licensed electricians focus on the safety and proper function of your potential home's entire electrical system. This usually includes:

• The condition of the switchboard (including those all-important circuit breakers and safety switches/RCDs).

• The safety and visual condition of accessible wiring (super important in older homes!).

• Checking the functionality and safety of accessible power points and light switches.

• Ensuring your smoke alarms are correctly installed and working as they should.

• The integrity of the earthing system.

• A thorough assessment for any electrical hazards, like exposed wiring, overloaded circuits, or signs of burning.

• The condition of light fittings and making sure they have enough clearance in roof spaces.

Q12: Why is an electrical inspection particularly important for older homes?

A: Great question! Older homes can sometimes have outdated wiring (like rubber or cloth insulation) that can become dangerous as it ages, increasing the risk of electrical fires or shocks. They might also lack modern safety features like Residual Current Devices (RCDs) or proper earthing, which are absolutely crucial for your family's safety. An electrical inspection gives you complete clarity here.

Q13: What is Compliance to AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules - ALTERATIONS

A: When we perform any alteration to your existing electrical system—such as modifying or extending an existing circuit—we are required by law to ensure that the altered circuit is upgraded to current safety standards.

According to Clause 2.6.3.2.5(a), if we alter any part of a final subcircuit (e.g. add a new light or move a power point), we must install an RCD (Residual Current Device) or RCBO (Residual Current Breaker with Overcurrent) at the start of the altered portion of the circuit.

This ensures the new or modified section of wiring is protected from electric shock and fire hazards. This rule applies even if the original circuit was installed before RCDs were mandatory, and no other parts of the installation are being touched.

Why this is important: -

• Improves safety to today’s standards

• Reduces risk of electric shock

• Ensures compliance with current electrical regulations

• Note: If the change is a repair only—like replacing a faulty switch or socket with a similar one in the same location—this is not classed as an alteration and does not require an RCD upgrade (per Clause 2.6.3.2.6).

Q14: What is Compliance to AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules - ADDITIONS

A: If we are adding to your electrical system—such as installing new power points (socket outlets), lights, or appliances—this is considered an addition to an existing subcircuit.

In these cases, the Wiring Rules require us to install an RCD or RCBO at the beginning of the new wiring run being added. This means that even if your existing circuit wasn’t RCD-protected when first installed, the new section of wiring must be, starting from where the addition joins the old wiring.

We do this using either: - An RCBO installed at your switchboard, or - An in-line RCD located at the point the new wiring begins (only in specific cases).

In homes and apartment complexes, we now typically protect each individual subcircuit with RCBOs, rather than sharing a single RCD between multiple circuits.

This approach:

• Prevents nuisance tripping from one circuit affecting others

• Increases overall system safety

• Helps quickly isolate faults

  Why this is important:

• Ensures all new electrical additions meet current safety standards

• Allows new power points or appliances to be installed safely

• Brings your system partially in line with modern safety upgrades

Q15: What is Compliance to AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules - ISOLATION Switches Electric Appliances

A: When fixed electrical appliances are installed, moved, or altered—especially as part of an upgrade, addition, or alteration—we must ensure they meet the mandatory isolation switch requirements set out in the Wiring Rules. These switches are required to safely disconnect power during servicing, emergency, or compliance inspections, and must be readily accessible, and in some cases, lockable.

Hot Water Systems (Electric or Gas, Hard-Wired) - Must have a readily accessible, lockable isolation switch. - Switch must be adjacent to the unit, but not mounted directly on it. - The neutral conductor does not have to be switched, but doing so is recommended for added safety.

Air Conditioning Units If the unit is hard-wired: - A lockable isolation switch must be installed adjacent to the unit, per Clause 4.6.2. If the unit is plugged into a standard GPO (general power outlet): - No extra isolation switch is required if the GPO is readily accessible (i.e., visible and reachable without moving furniture or tools).

Built-In Electric Ovens or Microwaves - A separate isolation switch is not required next to the built-in unit. - However, isolation must still be available, typically at the switchboard or a nearby wall switch.

Combined Gas and Electric Cookers - Must have a dedicated isolation switch that disconnects all active and neutral conductors. - Switch must be in a readily accessible location, within 2 metres of the appliance. - It must not be obscured by cabinetry, pantry doors, or objects that need to be moved to access it.

Why this is important: - Required under Clause 2.6.3 and 4.6.2 of the Wiring Rules

• Ensures trades can service or isolate safely during maintenance

• Reduces risk of electrical shock or damage to appliances

• Aids compliance with electrical inspections and certification

Q16: What is Compliance to AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules - ISOLATION Switches Gas Appliances

A: Even though gas appliances primarily rely on gas, any appliance that includes electrical parts (such as ignition, fans, or controls) must have a safe and compliant means of electrical isolation.

In most cases, this is achieved by plugging the appliance into a switched socket outlet (GPO). The location and accessibility of that outlet determine whether it complies.

Gas Cooktop with Electric Ignition

A GPO in the cupboard below the cooktop is considered compliant. - Even if the socket is behind pots, pans, or stored items, this is allowed because the standard only requires the outlet to be “accessible”, not “readily accessible”. - This means you don’t need to remove cabinetry or use tools to access the outlet, even if you must move loose items.

Air Conditioners / Heat Pump Systems (Hard-Wired)

Must have a readily accessible, lockable isolation switch installed adjacent to the unit, but not mounted directly on the appliance. - Neutral switching is not mandatory, but is recommended for improved safety and future servicing.

Hot Water Heat Pumps or Gas Systems Plugged into a GPO

If the heat pump or gas water heater is plugged into a standard GPO, and that outlet is readily accessible, no additional isolation switch is required. - “Readily accessible” means it must be visible and reachable without moving objects or tools.

Key Definitions: Accessible: Can be reached without removing fixed covers or panels (moving loose items like pots is okay).

Readily Accessible: Can be reached quickly without needing to move anything at all.

Why this is important:

• Ensures trades and homeowners can safely isolate power to gas appliances

• Complies with AS/NZS 3000:2018 safety requirements

• Avoids unnecessary additions if a compliant GPO is already present

Q17: What is Compliance to AS/NZS 3000:2018 Wiring Rules - Power Points in Wet Areas

Socket-Outlets in Wet Areas

According to Clause 6.2.4.2, the installation of socket outlets in wet areas is governed by defined zones to ensure safety:

Zone 0: (Inside the bath or shower basin.) - Socket outlets are not permitted in this zone.

Zone 1: (Above Zone 0, extending 2.5 meters vertically.) - Socket outlets are not permitted in this zone.

Zone 2: (Extends 0.6 meters horizontally from the edge of Zone 1 and 2.25 meters vertically.) - Socket outlets are permitted under specific conditions: - They must be RCD protected. - They should have a minimum Ingress Protection (IP) rating of IPX4.

Zone 3: Beyond Zone 2. - Standard installation practices apply, but RCD protection is still required. These zones are designed to minimize the risk of electric shock by considering the proximity to water sources.

Switches in Wet Areas

Clause 6.2.4.3 addresses the installation of switches in wet areas:

Zone 0: Switches are not permitted.

Zone 1: Switches are not permitted.

Zone 2: Switches are permitted if: - They have a minimum IP rating of IPX4. - They are installed at least 0.3 meters above the floor.

Zone 3: Standard installation practices apply. These requirements ensure that switches are adequately protected against moisture ingress, reducing the risk of electrical hazards.

Kitchen and Laundry Considerations

While the zoning system is primarily defined for bathrooms, similar principles apply to kitchens and laundries:

• Proximity to Water Sources: Socket outlets should not be installed directly above sinks, cooktops, or other water sources.

• Minimum Distance: A general guideline is to maintain a horizontal distance of at least 0.15 meters from the edge of sinks or basins.

• RCD Protection: All socket outlets in these areas must be protected by a Residual Current Device (RCD) with a maximum rated residual current of 30 mA, as specified in Clause 2.6.3.2.2. These measures are in place to enhance safety in areas where water and electricity are in close proximity.